Kathy Paris
Bethel High School
Spanaway, WA
Loss of habitat is the number one killer of wildlife. This is
one problem that the average person CAN do something about. "Regardless
of how much or how little space you occupy on this planet, you
have the power to help make that space hospitable to wildlife.
By developing an awareness of the needs of local birds and other
animals and by taking a few simple steps to help provide for those
needs, you can help reverse a centuries-long trend of habitat
destruction." (Mother Earth News, Sept.-Oct., 1986)
And that's only one of the rewards of managing your land for wildlife.
In most cases, you will spend less time and money mowing and
manicuring your property. The value of your property is likely
to increase, according to the National Wildlife Federation who
are experts in habitat design for wildlife. "Adding vegetation
and tree cover can raise property values by 3% to 10%."
(Mother Earth News, Sept.-Oct., 1986) Of course, there is the
sheer pleasure of watching wild birds and other animals benefit
from your stewardship. And perhaps more important, the time that
you spend learning about and working with wildlife will sharpen
your awareness of the ecosystems around you.
And remember, ANY piece of land can be managed to support at least
some species of wildlife. Generally, the more land you have to
work with, the more species you will be able to accommodate.
Even a suburban lot can serve as a haven for a large variety of
wildlife---IF the right conditions are present.
The Elements of Habitat
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| Before Planting, 1990 |
Virtually all of nature's creatures look for the same elements
in their "home:" food, water, cover and a safe, secure
place to raise their young. Your job is to provide those elements
within the space you can set aside.
Water
Without water, wildlife cannot survive. If water is not available
in the backyard where they feed and nest, wild creatures will
go where it can be found. Despite its obvious importance, however,
water is often overlooked in the planning of backyard habitats.
"Surprisingly, many species of birds and small mammals are
able to get the water they need from dew, the food they eat, and
the places where rain collects. Given a choice, though, most
kinds of wildlife prefer water from a pool, pond or stream. .
. and some species require it. Most creatures, in fact, will
be drawn to water more quickly than to food." (Mother Earth
News, Sept.-Oct., 1986)
A birdbath or small, hand-dug pool will usually be sufficient.
Even an upside down garbage can or a poultry waterer will work.
But if you have the room, establishing a more permanent water
supply, such as a small pond, should be at least a long-term goal,
since periods of drought are inevitable, and because aquatic habitat
will attract various wetland species that you couldn't expect
to attract otherwise. And, of course, in arid regions such as
the Southwest, a small, well vegetated pool will draw a very large
number of animals, especially birds, to your yard.
During the winter months in the northern states, keeping water
from freezing becomes a special problem. Small water heaters,
available from farm supply stores or wild bird stores, solve the
problem in small pools, and larger pools can be kept free of
ice by using cattle trough heaters.
Food
Food is probably the easiest of the four necessities to supply;
even if you have no more than a high-rise apartment balcony, you
can attract birds by putting out a feeder and some seed. Far
more practical, and usually far less expensive in the long run
than artificial feeding, is the planting of a variety of fruit,
nut and seed bearing trees, shrubs and plants that provide cover
as well as nutrition. Using native plant species is the best
choice because native wildlife prefer such choices. In addition,
native plants are not as likely to get disease.
If there is little or no food-bearing vegetation on your property
now, you can use feeders until you have had time to establish
plantings. Beware, however, the pitfalls of artificial feeding:
overfeeding can lead to overpopulation of some so-called pest
species. Overcrowding may result and can lead to the spread of
disease (to prevent, clean feeders with 10% bleach solution and
rinse thoroughly). In addition, wild creatures tend to become
dependent on feeders and may starve if you don't keep the stations
filled, especially in the winter and through most of the spring.
When new growth takes over, you can stop because natural food
will be available.
Cover
Cover is a term often used for any form of shelter from enemies
and the elements. Just as different species favor different foods,
cover preferences vary: brush or rock piles, tall trees, shorter
trees, tall and short shrub areas, dead trees (snags) and so on. Cover is especially crucial near foraging areas; most
food-bearing vegetation serves as its own cover, but you may need
to add sheltering trees, shrubs and grasses close to other popular
feeding places such as ponds, birdbaths, and artificial feeders.
"Likewise, it is important to establish travel lanes--dense
strips of cover such as hedgerows, shelterbelts, or other forms
of obscuring vegetation--to connect pockets of habitat and allow
animals to reach such areas without exposing themselves to danger."
(Mother Earth News, Sept.-Oct., 1986)
Reproductive Areas
Most animals require a very specific kind of cover in which to
raise their family. This type of cover is referred to as "reproductive
areas." Some birds and mammals nest on the ground such as
towhees, others, such as cardinals, nest in thick brush; and still
others, such as squirrels and woodpeckers require mature trees.
Regardless of the specific type, nesting areas are usually located
in safe, relatively inaccessible places which in most cases means
mature vegetation. If there is little or no such growth on your
property now, you may need to provide artificial reproductive
cover such as bird houses and nesting boxes until you have had
time to plant and establish mature stands. Birdhouses are sometimes
overlooked as a habitat supplement. Hollowed out gourds make
fine wren houses. Bluebirds, wrens, chickadees, woodpeckers,
martins and tree swallows live in holes and will use a nesting
box, if available. Squirrels, screech owls and sparrow hawks
prefer a larger nesting box. Some people put up small platforms
attached to trees as nesting sites for robins.
In any case, remember: providing quality breeding habitat is
the main way to insure wildlife in the long term. Providing food
and other comforts is important, but you main goal should be to
create a stable, secure place in which wildlife can live and reproduce.
To get started
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| After Planting, 1990 |
Before you can decide what to do with your property (or school
yard) to make it better for wildlife, you will need to take a
look at what you already have. It can consist of a mental note
of what you have or it can consist of making a map on which
you record your observations an inventory) and plan improvements (several
computer landscape programs are available for this). Start by
drawing the borders of your property (an aerial view). Add features
such as the house, walkways, driveway, fence, recreation areas,
garden area, etc. Also indicate the north, south, east, and west
directions. This will serve as your "base map." You
should make several copies of it so you can play with different
landscaping ideas.
Now examine and map your property for the following:
1. Existing vegetation: use field guides to help identify as many of your trees, shrubs, flowers, grasses and other plants as possible. Draw their positions on your map and make a list (a computer database would be good) of the common names. Since common names can often be misleading, it is very important to also make note of the scientific names. Once you get into this project you will often use the scientific names to find out additional information. If possible, record the relevant information. If you don't want to take the effort to record the names of all the existing plants, just outline their location on your property, adding an appropriate description such as wetlands thicket, dense shrubbery, conifers, trees with an understory of ferns, etc.
2. Different environments: It is often useful to differentiate between environmental zones since animals and plants favor different kinds of living conditions. Observe not only the types of vegetation but also the characteristic soil, amount of sunlight and other non-living environmental (abiotic) conditions in which each is growing. This will give you valuable clues about which types of trees and shrubs would be best to plant in each area, and about the kinds of animals that you are likely to be able to attract. For example, you would not see a sun loving plant in the shade and visa-versa.
3. Surrounding land use: This is an especially important factor if you have little land of your own, since many species of wildlife require territories of at least a few acres. If your neighbor is also providing habitat, or you can get them interested in doing so, your combined efforts will create a larger ecological unit, useful to a larger variety of wildlife. Notice if there are any open fields, barking dogs, roaming cats, noisy streets, forested areas, shrubbery. If cats are a problem, ask the owner if they could put a bell on its collar. In addition, all nesting boxes and houses should have some shrubbery underneath them so that the fledglings, if they fall, will have a place to hide until their wings are stronger. Chicken wire around feeders will help keep cats from pouncing on the birds. All of these elements need to be considered in the complex picture.
4. Existing wildlife: Make a list of the species you see and when you see them. Are certain areas more populated than others? If you observe a nest or footprints or any other signs of wildlife, note their location. Some enthusiasts make "life lists" of all the wildlife they have seen through the years. There are some World Wide Web based species lists of birds.
Planning
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| After Planting, 1990 |
Several key things to remember before you actually begin to plant:
include diversity, edges between habitats and use native plants
as much as possible.
Diversity (biodiversity) means that a variety of vegetation (for food, cover and reproductive
space) is offered to wildlife. The more diversity, the more stable
and healthy the area will be. More wildlife species will be attracted
to the variety of plants available. Think of what nature does
to a bare patch--diversity is always the key. Disease will also
be less likely to spread and you will have to use less fertilizers,
less pesticides, and it will be less labor intensive than growing
one type of plant (monoculture.) This is especially true if you
use native species. Plant evergreen and deciduous shrubs, ones
that flower and fruit at different times, young and older trees,
and different seed-bearing, nectar-producing shrubs and flowers.
Naturally occurring plants grow in many layers (tall trees, understory
trees, tall shrubs, short shrubs, and ground cover), rather than
all at the same height. This also enhances the diversity
of the habitat. Layering can be accomplished by putting the
tallest trees at the edge of your property. In front of these
should come the smaller deciduous trees, then tall shrubs, lower
shrubs and finally the ground cover. Plants and ground covers
tolerant of shade should also be planted underneath the tall plants.
Edges occur where one habitat type meets another habitat
type. For example, edges occur where trees and shrubs meet a
meadow or stream. Edges are important because they support a
great variety of wildlife. Most backyard can use the "edge
effect" to benefit wildlife. The edges on your property,
such as between you lawn and trees, should mimic natural edges
as closely as possible. This means there should be many layers
of vegetation with curved and irregular borders, much like along
a natural steam.
The best habitat for native wildlife is one with native plants.
plants that have evolved and occur naturally in your area. Native
plants are more closely matched to local soils, climate and wildlife.
They will be better in the long-run at providing the right kinds
of food, cover and diversity needed by wildlife. Native plants
often need less watering, spraying, pruning, fertilizing, and
other maintenance than exotic or imported plants. Check with
your local Audubon Society, Native Plant Societies, nurseries,
horticulture centers, universities, botanical gardens or arboreta for
help.
Now that you know about diversity, edges and native plants, start
researching the plants you would like to grow. Choose plants that
provide a variety of seeds, berries, nectar (flowers) and good
cover. Avoid sterile varieties that do not produce fruits or
seeds. Here are some questions/ideas to think about:
1. What do these plants look like?
2. What wildlife will they attract?
3. What soil, light, watering and temperature conditions do they
require? Where are these locations in your yard? Please note
that the north side of the house gets a lot of shade. You may
wish to note how long the sun remains in each area of your yard
during each season of the year (the sun's angle changes.)
4 What climate zone can they grow in?
5. How long do they take to mature and how large will they get?
It wouldn't be wise to put a tree that gets 60' under the eves
of your roof.
6. Do they provide fall color, showy flowers, aromas, or unique
leaf shape. Combine for aesthetic variety for you too.
7. Keep in mind how plants aid in energy conservation and comfort
by letting in the winter sun, protecting from prevailing winter
winds, and shading in the summer heat. What plants shed their
leaves (deciduous) or remain green all year (evergreens)? Where
would they best conserve energy? Evergreen give winter protection
for you and wildlife but will block the sun. Many deciduous trees
have good food for wildlife and allow in winter warmth they do
not protect from winter winds.
8. Note any special problems some plants may have, such as weak
wood, messy fruit, attractiveness to aphids and other pests, or
invasive roots like weeping willow and poplars.
9. You will probably find more than one plant that fits the needs
of a certain spot. Cost, availability and personal preferences
for unique features may influence you final selection. The best
time to buy plants is in March and April when nurseries have their
largest selections and plants are still dormant.
If you don't research these items you may be surprised when a
plant doesn't grow or grows so big you have to transplant it.
"Trial and error" planting can be very expensive and
a tremendous amount of work. Many books and websites are available
that show what the mature plant will look like and what it provides
for wildlife (see Resource List.)
Once you have decided on the plants, add them to your map in areas
that you want to attract wildlife. Try to maximize undisturbed
areas and concentrate and contain human activities. Preserve
as many existing trees as possible, create layers and provide
opportunities for viewing the wildlife you attract. Some people
make small cutouts to they can be moved on the map.
You now have your "blueprint" that will guide your habitat
construction and development over time. It is now time to get
beyond the homework and get your hands dirty. Before you begin
this phase, it would be wise to ask a nursery or other expert
to evaluate your plan to spot oversights or potential problems.
At this point, the techniques required to plant your yard for
wildlife are the same as planting and maintaining a yard for any
other purposes. Refer to garden books and nurseries for information
on soil preparation, planting techniques, watering, fertilizing,
pest and disease control, pruning, etc. After you are done, don't
forget to sit back, relax and enjoy your developing landscape.
It will take time to mature and a year or two may go by before
it is discovered by wildlife and the work gets out. But when
it does, you will furnish habitat resources that will provide
benefits to you and the animals that share your living space for
many years to come.
Science Seminars Archive
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